An Essential Guide to Sonoma

Sonoma isn’t necessarily the first place you’d imagine feeling a connection to the earth – but there’s something strange and wonderful happening in the soil here. An unexpected kind of magic, almost. Something tangible. As if someone sprinkled some extra special seeds here and now everything that grows here has a little extra magic in it. It could be Sonoma’s generally sunny disposition – or the towering trees that line every street; maybe the hundreds of species of wildflowers enveloping the rolling hills around you. It could be the incredible wine, the incredible food, the incredible everything.

I suppose that’s why several indigenous tribes called this area home for 12,000 years. Fertile soil, close to the ocean, close to the mountains – a perfect home.

Then, in 1823, Father Jose Altamira of Spain plants several thousand vines here and sets in motion a trajectory to make Sonoma a top tourist destination.

where to stay:

Sonoma county is quite expansive so I recommend choosing where to stay based on the the things you want to see to minimize time spent in the car. We stayed right in the heart of Sonoma Plaza at the beautiful and charming El Dorado. There are tons of shops, tasting rooms and restaurants all within walking distance – which means less driving or coordinating transportation if you’ll be drinking. Even the green space within the plaza itself is stunning and perfect for a picnic!

• El Dorado Hotel: (shown here; this is where we stayed and we’d definitely stay there again) charming, clean, super comfortable / in sonoma plaza and walking distance to tons of restaurants + activities / parking could be better
• MacArthur Hotel and Spa: down the road from sonoma plaza / bigger property / splurgeworthy modern california coastal rooms (some w/ an outdoor shower!) / spa amenities / restaurant options on the property
• Sonoma Bungalows: right off sonoma plaza / great for two couples or small groups / beautiful and recently built rooms / reserved parking (parking in the sonoma plaza area can be a hassle)
• The Ledson Hotel: in sonoma plaza / historic hotel w/ traditional touches and balconies for people watching
• Kenwood Inn and Spa: further up sonoma highway / rustic and beautiful rooms and property / spa amenities / definitely need a car since you’re not walking distance to anything

first things first:

• California wine country is not the most affordable place to vacation so planning ahead will be important. You don’t have to visit or see every winery and tasting room – just the ones that matter to you and fit your style and budget.
• There’s LOTS to do in the area. Contrary to what you might have heard, Sonoma’s appeal goes far beyond the wine; there are beautiful hikes, incredible and innovative food, art galleries, a great wellness space, culture and history you can touch and feel – the list goes on! So make a list early on of how you’d like to prioritize your time. Are you trying to leave a slightly more-informed wine drinker – or do you want to hop from one winery to another without a care in the world? Maybe you would prefer to spend a long weekend in and out of spas?

how to get there:

There’s two main options here depending on where you’re coming from. You can either fly into San Francisco and make the 1-1.5 hour drive in (my choice) or fly into Santa Rosa to a MUCH smaller airport and be closer. The main difference will be price and availability. I prefer San Francisco as the drive is spectacular and you’ll be better off bringing a car anyway.

where to eat:

Sonoma is all about fresh, hyper-local ingredients and a laid-back, but modern and innovative atmosphere where chefs can show off their skills. You’ll find unique offerings in most spots and a surprising range of options when it comes to prices. In general, California wine country is not cheap (have I said this enough?) – but when it comes to food you can truly craft your own experience at whatever price range you feel comfortable.

• Sunflower Caffe: fresh, local and seasonal ingredients / lots of affordable breakfast options and a ridiculously cute patio / open for breakfast and lunch only
• The Girl & the Fig: perfect for a glass of wine w/ charcuterie in between tastings or for dinner
• Valley Bar and Bottle: menu changes daily but you may have the best meal of your life here / innovative, modern, romantic
• Tasca Tasca Tapas: portuguese small plates / great selection of portuguese wine / extremely unique food options
• Mary’s Pizza Shack: just solid, greasy pizza perfect after a day of wine tasting / BYOB
• Carneros Deli: awesome little sandwich and snack stop / best to-go for picnics
• Lou’s Luncheonette: no-nonsense diner w/ large portions and BEER / breakfast and lunch
• El Coyote Food Truck: affordable tacos + burritos / stop by for breakfast, lunch, or a really early dinner

where to drink:

There’s obviously no shortage of wine in Sonoma. Your biggest challenge will most likely be to decide where to start! We enjoyed a mix of vineyard visits and tasting rooms. You can expect to pay an average of $25 – $50 per person per tasting.

• Pangloss Cellars: located in sonoma plaza, adorable tasting room area with a variety of wines
• Scribe Winery: newer winery with a beautiful palm-tree studded property and farm to table offerings (currently open to members only)
• Patz and Hall: newer winery with a main selection of sparkling, chardonnay and pinot noir
• Gundlach Bundschu: historic winery that survived an earthquake, the prohibition, multiple family members falling in and out of the business – an incredible story
• Buena Vista Winery: historic california landmark established in 1857
• BR Cohn Winery: located near Glen Ellen / beautiful property that often hosts live music and events
• Rockpile Vineyards: located in charming healdsburg / worth the drive for the great service and unpretentious atmosphere – we left with multiple cases!
• Faust: *technically* not in Sonoma county, but deserves an honorary mention because it was the best wine tasting experience of our entire trip / delicious wines, outstanding service, and a breathtaking location

final thoughts:

Sonoma county is beautiful and a destination I would recommend to anyone – but it really is what you make it. Pictured here – a “car picnic” we had with family in between wine tastings. You can absolutely have Michelin-starred dinners and extravagant lunches and cheese plates, but you can also make a stop at a local market for cheese and snacks and have yourself a little picnic in the parking lot.

Enjoy!